The sunrise at Angkor Wat – mystical, magical or just man-made hype?

Every tourist brochure shouts loudly not to miss the sunrise at the world’s largest temple complex of Angkor Wat. There are thousands of pages on the internet describing how people watched the sun rising behind the triple towers of Angkor Wat. Not to regret later, we decided to make it to the sun-rise experience – whether it’s mystical, magical or just man-made hype.

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We got up at 4.30 am, well before the roosters start their wake up calls and while the dawn moon was still above. Brushed, dressed and jumped on to the Tuk-Tuk (we had arranged the previous day) and off we went thinking we will be one of the early ones to see the magic. Mistake: there was literally a Tuk-Tuk race on the road ferrying tourists to watch the sunrise! The 30 minute ride on a cool… rather chilly morning was enough to rev up our senses from the morning blues. Reached the place only to find there were already hordes of tourists having occupied prime spots.

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The place is picture postcard…. The temple towers standing majestically with their faint reflection on the still waters of the pond in front with a splatter of Lotuses and water Lilies. The misty, foggy atmosphere and the gibberish whispers of the waiting spectators added a surrealistic aura around the place. 

I nudged myself into the crowd and positioned in a corner of the banks of the pond…. and waited patiently for THAT moment.

As the dawn was cracking up slowly, cameras and smart phones of all sizes and shapes started snapping endlessly, capturing each slight change in the skyline. Then the magic started unfolding; streaks of light in a stunning mix of glowing orange and rustic gold peeked out from behind the towers, beautifully and artistically disrupted by the intricate grooves of the temple sculptures. A stunning reflection of Angkor Wat was slowly spreading out on the still waters of the pond.  With the water lilies and lotuses spouting between the reflections, it looked like a classic painting. As the sun slowly peaked above the Wat, the veins of light grew bigger bathing the colossal monument in golden glory and the beauty and power of the Khmers’ masterpiece erupted in full splendor. I stood speechless watching the magical spectacle! Moments later the climax was over and the crowds dispersed… some heading back and some heading to the Wat to start their day’s itinerary.

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Is the experience worth all the trouble…. ditching your early morning deep sleep, braving the chill wind, jostling with an over-enthusiastic crowd etc…?

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I think it is an experience worth its every moment.  An hour of mystic, magic and dramatic light and shadow play over one of the most elaborate and stunning tributes to the Gods. Probably the Sun is thanking the Khmer kings and blessing the Angkorians with this cosmic show every day.  Do not miss it.dsc_9635a

Driving through the woods

An exhilarating journey in God’s Own Country

Verdant rainforest drenched by recent rains, lush and thick greenery all around, streaks of sunlight through the dense foliage playing hide and seek, well-laid roads (yes, no potholes) washed and clean by the recent showers, misty mountains at a distance keeping you company along the way with occasional drizzles of the remaining monsoon – the scenario immediately reminded me of Robert Frost’s “The woods are lovely, dark and deep” when we drove through Western Ghats to see Athirappally Falls on Chalakudy River, nicknamed as the Niagara of India.

 

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The winding, narrow road gets darker with thick foliage of tall bamboo trees forming a canopy virtually covering up the sky, as you get nearer to the Falls. Long before we rolled down the windows of our car to enjoy the fog and the refreshing breeze loaded with mist and yes, the accompanying birdcalls of all kinds.

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Just about to reach our destination, our driver Fahad stopped the car on the roadside to let us get the first sight of the mighty Athirappally waterfalls from a vantage point. Three huge plumes of roaring water surging down over massive rocks in the middle of pristine forest surrounded by mountains. It was simply awesome! Picture perfect!

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When we reached our destination, the first feeling was an amazement of the mighty force of water as it touches down the rocky bottom. As we got closer to the falls (up until the barricade), we were stunned by the sheer volume of water thundering down, creating clouds of mist -a jaw dropping sight! It was indeed an overwhelming, overpowering experience reminding us, the humans, of the serene beauty and the raw power of nature at once.

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We spent around an hour or so splashing on the placid, cool, pure mountain waters of the river (earmarked by the forest department for visitors) and returned. A number of monkeys along the way greeted us …rather staring at our belongings to check for eatables or drinks! We could see one of them literally pouncing upon a girl and snatching away the ice cream she was holding!

We continued our journey to view Vazachhal Falls …a gentle cascade down a slope of a massive rock-bed. Less visited by tourists (most return from Athirappally), Vazachhal has a well-maintained herbal/medicinal garden along with a stunningly located forest guesthouse (inspection bungalow as they call it) built by the British over decades ago.

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Here we could spot a few Giant Malabar Squirrels, aptly named, hopping around treetops. Not to miss the idyllic surroundings, we enjoyed our picnic lunch on the terrace of the bungalow overlooking the falls and finished it with Kerala black tea from the Forest Department’s small canteen.

Madrid Musings: The Flamenco Dancer

The place: Royal park, Madrid, Time: A cool evening in late October 2015.

During our recent family vacation at Madrid, Spain we spent an evening at the Royal Park at the end of a busy walking tour of the city. The weather was just perfect hovering around 150 Celcius with a nip in the air. The park was almost ready to wear her autumn colours! Being a later part of a week day, the usual tourist buses had come and gone leaving the sprawling park just for the locals and the late visitors like us.

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As we moved forward we saw the usual street performers here too like elsewhere in popular touristy cities, displaying whatever skills they were good at, to entertain and … to earn their daily bread; a magician, a guitarist, a craftsman, a soprano and a flamenco dancer.

We stopped by for a couple of minutes at each of them watching their performances, when we heard the foot-tapping and palm-clapping sounds of the Flamenco dancer. What we thought could be one of the usual street performances, turned out to be a lively, entertaining display of flamenco skill that one wouldn’t have expected from a street performer.

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A full fifteen minutes of highly energetic dance with her twinkle toes tapping the footboard in nimble yet graceful movements with her hands clapping at right times in tune with the music (by a guitarist by her side). The agility and grace of her movements – the lean legs displaying the footwork of a virtuoso while the slender arms swaying in the air in rhythm- were adorable. The expressions on her face were lightening; from casting a fiery stare to a romantic look, from assertive to vivacious – all in seconds!

I went on a clicking spree and tried to capture those moments as much as possible.

I am sure she must have been dancing for a good part of the day but I couldn’t see any signs of weariness either in her movements or in her countenance.

I am not a Flamenco expert or a critic but in my humble opinion, she deserved to be at a good theatre dancing to the well heeled; probably the lady luck has not (yet) smiled at her.

We really enjoyed a fabulous Flamenco performance in an autumn setting! We happily gave her a few Euros when we left. The evening was well worth it!

Madrid Musings:Mercado de San Miguel

Vibrant, colourful, exotic, noisy and a bit chaotic,…these words came to my mind when we entered Mercado de San Miguel food market, Madrid.

One of Madrid’s oldest, well-known and not-to-be-missed landmarks in Madrid, just a couple of hundred meters from Madrid Royal Palace, the San Miguel market has been a favourite rendezvous for Madrilenos (or Madridians or Madridans?) for a few centuries and until now.DSC_0507a

Once inside the large, beautifully carved iron and glass structure, rows of stalls welcome you with an indescribable concoction of strange flavours floating in the air. Benches and stools (yes) were crammed with locals and visitors while many more were hovering around trying to find a place to squeeze in and enjoy the exhilarating atmosphere.. Joining the happy-go-lucky crowd, we squeezed our way through to scan the culinary fare on show.DSC_9141a

An exotic variety of dishes were on display – from the most popular Spanish Paellas and Tapas to mouth-watering Calamari fries (neatly packed in designer cones), bizarre-looking Gulas on bread slices to spiky Sea Urchins(cooked and top open), from cooked bi-valve molluscs to steamed Octopus (in full and just the arms) …..indeed quite exotic!

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Gulas on bread

The quick-serve bars were doing brisk business serving a range of Spanish cocktails – the ubiquitous Sangria to colourful Mojitos and Bajitos and a range of Spanish and Port wines – to customers who just stood at the stall counter drinking and chatting unmindful of the world behind. A walking bar (yes!) – a tall Spanish guy was doing his rounds selling (yelling!) wine by the glass, served from his cleverly designed large tray that held a number of wines and glasses.

It was well over 2 pm and having done a half day walking tour of Madrid, we were hungry and the whole market atmosphere was so invigorating that we felt even hungrier!

I settled for plate of seafood Paella and a large glass of Sangria to wash it down. Though never tried to be adventurous with food, the sea-urchins somehow caught the fancy of my daughter and me and we decided to bet on it for 4 Euros. Mustering up my guts, I took a small scoop of the yellowish meat inside the shell and tasted….Far from getting repulsive, we actually started liking it and finished it in no time! It tasted like a dish made of mashed potato with a stash of ground fish.

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Bi Valve Mollusc

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The lunch was complete with another famous Spanish Churros dessert.

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Churros in chocolate sauce 

One thing that I observed during our stay in Madrid…. Madrilenos just love life…. 24X7.. From the cream-da-la crème to the commonalty, I could feel a jolly good bonhomie in every place- squares, restaurants, Al fresco dining places along the picture-postcard boulevards, bars you name it…. Mercado San Miguel is a typical example.